Presentation by Dr Jim Milledge

Professor Jim Milledge spoke to CASE medicine members about the Silver Hut and AMREE expeditions earlier this week. Jim was a member of both the Silver Hut expedition from 1961, and the AMREE expedition in 1981. Both expeditions took place on the slopes of Everest. He joined the likes of Edmund Hillary, John West, Griffith Pugh and Chris Pizzo.

The 1960-61 expedition usually known as the "Silver Hut" expedition led by Hillary, with Pugh as scientific leader, also included John West. The team spent the winter at 5,800m in a prefabricated silver hut before an attempt was made on Makalu (8,400m) in the spring. The hut had been carried up the mountain in sections by a team of porters and then bolted together. Within the hut the scientists carried out a large number of physiological tests on many aspects of heart and lung responses to this prolonged period of low oxygen, both in the silver hut and higher on Makalu. It included the highest ever measurement of VO2 max at that point in time. This record was held until the CXE expedition in 2007.

The 1981 American Medical Research Expedition to Everest (AMREE) led by John West also gathered a large amount of physiological data. This included some firsts:
The measurement of alveolar gas samples, and barometric pressure on the summit of Everest.

Jim shared some personal experiences and images from both trips and commented on the many developments that have been made in terms of both scientific and climbing equipment since the 1960's.

Jim joined the 2007 CXE expedition, and is seen here writing a blog in a lodge at Pheriche. He also joined the 2010 Xtreme Alps expedition to do some experiments using echocardiography. Jim Milledge and John West are two of the authors of a well known physiology book: 'High Altitude Medicine and Physiology' by Ward, Milledge, and West.